One of the themes of our time here in Montpellier is the subject of travel - why do we travel? how do we travel? as well as different forms of travel - pilgrimage, crusade, grand tour, immigration, etc. One aspect of travel that relates directly to this region and Montpellier in particular is the pilgrimage of Santiago de Compostela - the pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James. One of the many beginning points of this pilgrimage is Arles, France moving across the bottom of France, over the Pyrenees and into Spain. After Rome, this is Europe's most important pilgrimage site.
Pilgrimage is an interesting concept, though not one that remains terribly important to Protestants, particularly Americans. But the externalizing of the inward journey in which one travels in order to recognize one's identity as a stranger to this world and to strengthen one's identity as one who faithfully follows is certainly worth considering. Christians throughout time have understood Abraham as the first struggling pilgrim and the Epistle of Hebrews speaks of Abraham and others with the compelling remark in ch. 11:
And if indeed they had been mindful of that country from which they went out, they would have had opportunity to return. But now they desire a better country, that is, a heavenly: wherefore God is not ashamed of them, to be called their God; for he hath prepared for them a city.
To desire a "better country" is a daily choice and if you are like me, however, you wake up somedays and just want to return, go back, and forget all about this journey with God and the promised land. It is a journey of success and failure, of hope and hardship, of faithfulness and doubt. The spiritual life is always the pilgrim's choice.
This pilgrimage choice is also starkly offered on the route to Santiago de Compostela by two different images of Saint James that a pilgrim can encounter along the road in churches as altar pieces, sculptures, and paintings. One common image is Santiago Peregrino (St. James the Pilgrim) in which the saint holds a staff in one hand while the other opens toward the viewer as if he is offering it to hold, an invitation to walk together as companions in the spiritual life, toward a better country. There is another image of James, however, that is neither offering a hand in friendship nor inviting companionship on the way to Compostela, Santiago Matamoros (St. James the Killer of Moors). This image embodies the historical reality of tensions between Christianity and Islam and shows James astride a mighty steed, his right arm thrashing with a sword down upon a turbaned figure beneath the rearing hooves of his horse. Both images are part of the historical memory of the Christian faith in its pilgrimage on the earth. One wields the sword in conquest while the other, explained in a medieval sermon, is "armed and defended" by Jesus' command to love one's neighbor as one's self.
Of course, James's two conflicting images - killer and pilgrim-have nothing to do with the saint himself and everything to do with the Christians who followed the route toward his tomb. The images reflect their choices along the way to either love or hate, pray or fight, walk or chase. These images also offer us, I believe, an important question. In this journey of life, which path will we walk? Will we follow the example of James the Pilgrim or James the Killer? Will we follow the one who heard Jesus' call to love others, even one's enemies, or will we join with the one who succumbed to that impulse that we all share - to kill our enemies in order to save ourselves? As you consider your route, I offer you a prayer that pilgrims to Santiago pray for their journey.
Teach us, apostle and friend of the Lord,
the WAY which leads to him.
Open us, preacher of the Gospel,
to the TRUTH you learned from your Master’s lips.
Give us, witness of the faith,
the strength always to love the LIFE Christ gives.
We pray in Jesus’ name. Amen.
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